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Preparing your bike for winter?

Introduction

You can equip your bike with protections dedicated to winter, at the cost of certain aesthetic concessions, it is true… Anyway, we don’t have found better than a pair of sleeves accompanied by a tablier to ride in the greatest comfort. The couriers, on the road all day and all year round, make no mistake about it!

Some solutions will prove effective without affecting its look. Thereby, pair of heated grips will effectively prevent the itch without affecting its style – the hands remaining the weak point of the majority of the motorcyclists in winter.

The heated saddle, available from many manufacturers of comfort saddles, provides unexpected comfort, all in complete discretion...

prepare your bike for winter

Preparing your machine for winter

Par cold or wet weather, you should not deflate your tires, but you should par against softening its suspensions, that is to say relieving the rebound of the shock absorber (and of the fork if possible).

In winter, a road tyre, or even a GT, will be much safer. Not only because it evacuates water better, but above all because it heats up faster, retains the temperature, distributes it better over the entire width of the tire, even if it is scabies. While the sports type tire will never heat up and will remain hard, therefore slippery.

To do well, you need tires with a compound capable of offering good "grip" at low temperatures, but which also offers good grooving to evacuate rainwater, such as Heidenau K66 tire or the model IRC Urban Snow specially designed for driving in extreme weather conditions: rain, snow, frost.

Winter imposes not only adapted driving, but also additional constraints, both to drive safely and to protect our vehicle from corrosion.

do not forget to keep moving parts lubricated.
The cold stiffens the ccommands, inducing less precision and a possibility of breaking the cable used (clutch, accelerator, counter, brake on old motorcycles). If possible, disassemble the parts before lubricating them and play them to allow the grease to penetrate. The concern obviously does not arise for the hydraulic controls. Also watch the axes of the levers et pedal.

Put antifreeze in your cooling liquid, if your motorcycle is cooled par liquid, of course. And if you had the good idea to replace the liquid par water, it's time to get real coolant. Consult your motorcycle owner's manual to find out which fluid and which antifreeze to use.

The cold also causes the humidity to stagnate in the terminals and electrical connections of the beam.
Spray an anti-corrosion product (contact cleaner) on each.

Grease the chain more frequently, it does not like humidity too much and even less spreading salt. In general, salt corrodes all metallic elements very quickly.
After each ride, hose down the entire bottom of your motorcycle with cold water. Above all, no hot water! Hot water dissolves the salt and makes it penetrate everywhere while cold water makes it go away in big crystals.

After drying and before each outing on salty roads, spray WD40 on the bottom of your motorcycle, especially on the fairings, the fork, the mudguard and the engine (but not on the brakes, nor the tires!!!).

The film thus formed will protect against salt by preventing it from becoming encrusted.

Think about the state of your tires : tread depth suitable for wet roads (less than 50% wear) and adequate pressure (under-inflating is useless).
Pay particular attention to hypersport tires which remain hard as wood until they have reached their ideal temperature, which is almost impossible to reach in winter.

Adapt if necessary engine oil.
The viscosity grade for winter is indicated par the number in front of the letter "W" (for "winter"). A cold winter means putting on 5W50. In France, 10W40 is enough most of the time. Par against, the 20W50 will be too viscous to provide proper lubrication to the cold engine.

Protect your chrome : they don’t like spreading salt either.
Treat the whole bike to the “bodywork and alloys” protective product, except the brakes and the exhaust pipe, of course!

Watch out for the brakes precisely, the stirrups seize up easily.
If possible, pass the inside of the calipers (piston side) to the brake cleaner (degreaser), then clean with a blower (ask a garage nicely if you don’t have a compressor at home). And avoid the brake pads" racing ”, hyper-biting but only when they are very hot.

Battery : make sure she answers present every morning. Replace it before it's too late or invest in a special slow-charging motorcycle charger. JetTake a look at the terminals and, if necessary, grease them. A battery only tolerates cold well if it is charged and permanently, so care must be taken to maintain an optimal charging current by brushing the connections and protecting them against corrosion (paraffin or solid Vaseline) .

The suspensions : set soft!
A firm tuned damper reduces grip on slippery surfaces. The spring setting (preload) can remain unchanged (base value), but the damping hydraulics (rebound) must become softer.

Regularly wipe your mirrors with your gloves while driving or sprayanti-fog above.

Lighting :

During this time of year, the days are shorter and the darkness will accompany you during your morning trips and at the end of the day. Remember to check your lighting whether it's your headlight, taillight and turn signals. They are essential that you can see the road and be seen.

Driving in winter

With the cold, even well equipped, you also get tired more quickly. We ride very concentrated, even tense, contracted. Frequent breaks are all the more necessary, short but frequent. Hence the importance of leaving well in advance. And after every break, even a few minutes, if it's really cold, remember that your tires will have cooled down.

Learn to read the road: wherever the road is in the shade for all or part of the day, it can remain damp and with the cold, this dampness turns into frost or even ice. Be especially wary in areas with alternating shade and sun.

In winter, with the short days, we find ourselves much more often than in summer with a low sun.
However, it is not necessarily easy to ride with sunglasses or a sun visor. The only solution is to learn to ride with one hand, of course keeping the right hand on the gas and the front brake, but using the left hand to just hide the sun.

Before leaving for a long journey, find out about weather conditions, road conditions, mountain pass closures.

Increase safety distances with the vehicles in front of you.
Not only can the ground be slippery, which increases stopping distance, but if there is snow or ice on the road, clumps of dirty snow build up in the wheel arches of cars and trucks. All of a sudden they come loose and fall right in front of your tires…

Another phenomenon is the film of frost that forms on the bodies or tarpaulins of trucks and can come off under the effect of speed or a gust of wind, thus sending you ice cubes in the face!

Also be wary of salting vehicles which throw salt, sand, snow on the sides and behind them. Do not follow them closely and if you come across one, slow down and keep to the right, as far as possible.

Par cold and dry weather, no particular problem arises.
Just remember that the colder surrounding air will take your engine longer to reach operating temperature and the tires will take longer to reach optimum grip.

Par rainy weather, nothing else to do but reduce the speed

Par foggy weather, the road is wet, the same advice applies.
It will take par against taking into account even more reduced visibility, for you and for others. Reduce the speed even more!

If possible, put on a reflective vest, put on an LED armband.

If it's raining (or humid, or foggy) and freezing on the ground (an ambient temperature below 2°C can be enough to give 0°C to the floor), it is likely that you will encounter some ice.
And therefore you will lose the grip of your wheels.
Take particular care in windy places (bridges, gorges), tunnels, undergrowth where the sun does not pierce, mountain slopes to the north.

The ice is the only climatic hazard that should dissuade you from taking the bike.

If it snows, avoid taking the road on two wheels. First of all, it slips a bit all the same, and above all, the visibility is very poor. The snow sticks to the helmet screen, you can't see anything quickly, you have to wipe it off every ten seconds. Same advice on visibility as par foggy weather.

On snow, we roll Secondly at 10 km/h, both feet out to catch small slips, without braking or accelerating. Everything in the clutch! Learn to spot the point of clutch slippage and take it easy on the throttle.

Par cons, if the motorcycle slips and you can't straighten it out right away par one impulse of the foot, let it go. Don't try to catch her on slippery ground, you'll just end up hurting yourself. Let her go, don't cling to her.

Conclusion

If you are apprehensive about hitting the road in poor conditions, do not forcez not car stress increases the risk of driving errors. Conversely, do not take too much confidence car the danger is permanent in case of slippery roads. Ride relaxed, smooth and alert.

Carefully prepare your vehicle and your equipment.

For good visibility, use your lights.

To be well seen by drivers, wear your most conspicuous equipment: clear, colored or even fluorescent, equipped with reflective strips or inserts, and do not hesitate to wear a yellow vest (now mandatory in the vehicle) over your jacket.


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